As a professional Chef writing his first cookbook, I spend even more time than usual thinking about food—and I'm loving it. Recently, I was thinking about fishing, tacos, and my dad.
I'm not sure the year or the day I first ate a fish taco, but I can smell it and see a warm tortilla made with ground corn comfortably cradled in my hand. The fish was garlicky, salty, and spicy with that beautiful heat and aroma of habanero salsa. My dad was cooking over a small campfire on the banks of the river. I remember the whole fish went into the pan. My mom would later share that the crispy fried fins with salt and lime were her favorite. Papi's was the eye. I ended up liking both.
My local rivers and lakes are abundant in trout and mountain whitefish, and it is usually right around when Spring grows into Summer that I am inspired to go commune with my ancestors and the beautiful world that feeds us. These days, I build the fire and catch the fish. Sometimes there’s a group of us, and other times it’s just me and Bluegrass the pup. I will pack my gear with fish tacos in mind; a menu easily prepped and packed from home, or I will cook everything over the fire at the river.
What is certain is that I will notice my dad in the sun, the wind, the call of a bird, and fighting fish. He taught me that extra recipe, before he passed away, to look for him in the living parts of the world. If fortune smiles on me, I will catch a fish. Inevitably, I will think of my dad, while scaling the fish or smashing the garlic cloves, I will see my dad’s hands in mine, or maybe it happens when the garlic is frying, or I smell the Habanero? Then, I’ll smile tenderly and recall that I am a part of him, even more so as I cook and enjoy these recipes.
Buen Provecho!
Fish Tacos with Black Beans & Charred Habanero Onion Salsa
Papi's Pescado Frito
My favorite way to cook fish for fish tacos is pescado frito. My father taught my brother and me on the banks of the river, just as his father undoubtedly taught him, and so on for at least six generations of fishermen.
Our family's favorite fish for tacos is the Rocky Mountain Whitefish, but any white-fleshed fish, like trout, snapper, or bass, will work fine. Writing this recipe brings back the smells of this dish. The meat is crispy on the skin side and moist inside. As I dream of tacos and pescado frito, I am reminded that this dish is complete with a side of black beans.
This is Papi’s Pescado Frito, a tribute to a man who was both a fisherman and a chef. This dish is hands-on. Once you’ve pulled crispy and tender fried fish from the bone and wrapped it in a warm tortilla, it feeds the body and soul as it becomes a memory never to be forgotten!
Serves 4 - 6
Ingredients:
● 1 - 2 whole whitefish or trout; cleaned and scaled, head and fins attached
(or substitute other 2lb fish such as bass or snapper)
● 1 head of garlic, separated into cloves (with the paper left on) and crushed to split the paper
● 3 - 4 limes
● 2 teaspoons sea salt (approximate)
● 3 cups olive oil
● 1 small white onion, peeled and cut into small diced pieces
● ¼ bunch or ½ cup cilantro, rinsed and chopped
For serving:
● Halved limes
● Habanero Onion Salsa
● Warm corn tortillas
Method:
1. Prepare your fish: Scale, gut, clean and pat dry. Score or place 3-4 shallow cuts through the skin. Start behind the jaw or pectoral fin and cut through the meat to the backbone, perpendicular to the spine. Repeat every inch towards the tail 3-4 times, depending on the size of the fish. These cuts encourage even cooking.
You can either keep the fish whole or cut it into 2-3 bigger pieces (head, middle, tail) to accommodate your pan.
2. Squeeze fresh lime over the fish and sprinkle salt all over the sides. Push the juice and salt into the score marks and the interior of the fish. Use a touch more salt than you would add to a fried egg. The salt measurement depends on the size of the fish you are using.
3. Heat olive oil in a frying pan big enough to hold your entire fish or fish pieces. The oil is ready when a fin on the fish inserted into the oil immediately sizzles, about 360- 375°F if using a thermometer.
4. Fry the crushed garlic until it is a deep golden brown. Remove garlic and set aside.
5. Slowly add the fish. Be prepared - the pan will get lively, so be careful! Use a spoon to baste the topside of the fish with hot oil periodically.
6. When the underside is nicely browned, flip the fish and continue to cook until both sides are deep brown and the skin is crispy. This should take 7-10 minutes. Remove to a plate and drain on a paper towel or newspaper.
To serve:
Season the fried fish with a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Pull the meat away from the bone and wrap in a warm corn tortilla. Top with habanero onion salsa, chopped cilantro, and onion.
Make sure to get the recipes for Eduardo's Black Beans and Charred Habanera Onion Salsa!
